Step by step
How to xeriscape a yard
A conversion is a small construction project followed by a long horticultural one. Get the order right and the planting survives; get it wrong and you will be replacing plants in the second summer.
Updated November 2026
01
Audit water, sun and soil
Track which parts of the yard dry out first, where water pools, how many hours of sun each zone gets, and what the soil does when you squeeze it. A $20 soil test from your extension service removes most of the guesswork.
02
Draw hydrozones
Three zones are enough: oasis (entry, patio, containers), transition (beds visible from the house), and arid (perimeter, slope, parkway). Each zone gets its own plant palette and irrigation schedule.
03
Decide what turf survives
Keep lawn only where it is used. Measure the rest, then remove it. Solarisation, sheet mulching or mechanical stripping all work; the choice depends on how much time and how many weeds you have.
04
Fix the soil before planting
Spread 2–4 inches of compost over beds and fork it into the top 6–8 inches. Do not import heavy topsoil over clay without breaking the interface; it creates a bathtub.
05
Install drip, not spray
Drip lines on separate valves per hydrozone, a filter and pressure regulator, a smart controller and a rain sensor. Run each zone long and infrequently to push roots down.
06
Plant in the right order
Trees and large shrubs first, then mid-shrubs, then perennials and groundcover. Plant at the same depth as the nursery pot, water in, and mulch 2–4 inches, keeping mulch off stems.
07
Water through establishment
The first two summers need more water than the mature landscape. Taper the schedule as plants establish; natives often need deep, infrequent watering, not none.
What to plant
Use plants that are native or adapted to your region and matched to the hydrozone. Your state extension service publishes regional plant lists; a local nursery that grows its own stock is the next best source. Avoid a monoculture of one species, and include evergreen structure so the garden is not a dead patch in winter.
A workable ratio for a first conversion: 60% shrubs and perennials, 25% groundcover and ornamental grass, 15% trees. Trees do the heavy lifting for shade and property value; plant them small and be patient.
Full palette guidance: xeriscape design guide.
Common mistakes
Gravel over fabric
Weeds blow in, the fabric clogs, and the bed bakes. Use organic mulch in most climates; gravel only where it suits the design and climate.
Overwatering natives
Drip on a lawn schedule drowns desert plants. Set the controller per hydrozone, and turn it off after establishment rains.
Too few plants
Nursery spacing is not mature spacing. Plant for the mature spread, or fill gaps with annuals and groundcover while shrubs grow.
Sources: EPA WaterSense ·Colorado State Extension ·Arizona Extension. Next: what it costs.