Quick answer
Prune apples, pears, cherries, plums and figs in late winter while dormant. Prune stone fruit in late winter to early spring, avoiding wet weather. Prune citrus lightly in late winter to early spring. Never remove more than about 25% of the canopy in one year.
Why dormant pruning works
In late winter the tree is asleep, the leaves are gone and the branch structure is visible. Wounds made now begin sealing as growth starts in spring, and the tree has stored energy to push new shoots. Pruning also removes wood while the tree is not spending resources on it.
The exception is stone fruit in wet climates: open wounds in cool, wet weather can invite silver leaf and bacterial canker. Prune in a dry window in late winter or early spring.
The calendar
December–February: apples, pears, figs
The core dormant window. Remove dead, damaged and crossing branches; thin the canopy; shorten the leaders if the tree is too tall. Apples and pears fruit on spurs and short shoots, so keep the fruiting wood and remove the water sprouts.
February–March: peaches, plums, cherries, nectarines
Prune just before bloom, in a dry spell. Stone fruit flowers on one-year-old wood, so heavy pruning removes the crop. Remove crossing branches and thin the center for light; keep the replacement shoots.
February–March: citrus
Light thinning only. Remove dead wood, water sprouts and branches that cross or touch the ground. Citrus is evergreen and flowers on new growth; heavy structural pruning reduces yield.
May–June: summer pruning
Remove water sprouts and overly vigorous shoots. Shorten long branches to control size. This is the time to shape a young tree without triggering rampant regrowth.
September–November: limited work
Remove dead, damaged or diseased wood. Avoid structural pruning; the tree is preparing for dormancy. Clean up fallen fruit to reduce disease pressure.
The cuts that matter
- Thinning cut: remove a branch at its origin. Opens the canopy without stimulating regrowth.
- Heading cut: shorten a branch to a bud or side branch. Stimulates growth below the cut; use sparingly.
- Removal cut: take out dead, damaged or crossing wood at the branch collar.
Do not leave stubs, do not cut flush into the trunk, and do not paint wounds. The tree seals its own cuts.
How much to remove
A mature tree can lose about 25% of its canopy in one year without stress. A neglected tree may need three years of pruning to restore structure. Removing 50% at once pushes a mass of water sprouts and sets the tree back.
Young tree training
The first three years are about structure, not fruit:
- Choose a single leader or a open-center framework, depending on the species.
- Select three to five scaffold branches spaced around the trunk.
- Remove competing leaders and branches with narrow angles.
- Keep the lowest scaffold high enough to mow under, usually 24–36 inches.
- Remove flowers in year one or two so the tree puts energy into roots.
Tools and hygiene
Bypass pruners, loppers and a pruning saw. Clean blades with alcohol between trees, especially if fire blight or canker is present. Wear gloves and eye protection. For anything above ladder height, hire a professional.
Next: what pruning costs · find a local arborist.
FAQ
Can I prune a fruit tree in summer?
Yes, for vigor control and to remove water sprouts. Summer pruning is a useful supplement, not a replacement for dormant structural pruning. It reduces growth more than dormant pruning because it removes leaves.
What happens if I prune in autumn?
Wounds heal slowly, spores are active, and the tree may push tender growth before frost. Autumn pruning is usually avoided except for removing dead or damaged wood.
How often should fruit trees be pruned?
A light structural prune every year or two, plus removal of dead, damaged and crossing wood. Young trees are trained for the first three years; mature trees need less each year.